An Unexpected Journey Through Accra’s Wild Side
What do a giant sneaker-shaped coffin, a suspiciously named cocktail, and a bar full of strangers yelling “Danish Man in Accra” have in common?
They all happened to me during two unforgettable days here in Ghana’s capital.
In this second part of my Ghana adventures, I’m still exploring Accra – and things are about to get weird, wonderful, and just a little bit wild.
I’ll take you to a workshop where people design fantasy coffins shaped like Coke bottles, sneakers, or even microphones.
And I’ll share the hilarious moment when Cynthia casually ordered a cocktail called “Sex in the Driveway” – just before I found myself forced to sing in a packed bar.
But we can’t stay in Accra forever… so buckle up. After this extra episode, it’s almost time to hit the road and explore the rest of Ghana.
Layers of Accra:
A City of Contrasts
Walking through Accra, I was immediately struck by how many layers this city has.
There’s noise, traffic, street food, beach bars, and modern high-rises – and then, out of nowhere, an old colonial fort or a crumbling historical building pops up.
Accra actually started as a small fishing village, settled by the Ga people, who still live here today.
Then the Europeans arrived.
One of the biggest historical landmarks is Fort Christiansborg – also known as Osu Castle – built by the Danes in the 1600s.
And yes, the Danes were here too.
Funny enough, it shares its name with the Danish Parliament building back home in Copenhagen, known casually as “Borgen”.
The big white building you see right by the coast, Fort Christiansborg, has a heavy history.
It was first built by the Portuguese, then taken over by the Danes, who used it as a trading post – mostly gold, but also enslaved people.
Standing there, thinking about this dark chapter in Danish history, hit differently.
For over 200 years, the Danish flag flew over this place.
Later, the British took control, and after Ghana gained independence, it even served as the seat of the Ghanaian government.
Several presidents worked out of this building by the ocean.
It’s not always open for visitors, but even just walking past it, you can feel the weight of history in the walls.
Accra is not a picture-perfect city – but it’s alive, buzzing with culture, energy, and endless stories.
A LOOK IN THE HISTORY BOOK
Ghana’s story didn’t begin with European colonization – far from it.
Long before it was called Ghana, the region was home to powerful African kingdoms with their own armies, leaders, and trade networks.
The Europeans arrived in the 1400s, starting with the Portuguese, drawn by tales of gold.
They named the coastline the “Gold Coast” – for obvious reasons.
Soon traders and colonizers from Portugal, the Netherlands, Britain, and Denmark were all trying to stake their claims.
Eventually, the British took full control, turning the Gold Coast into a British colony.
But Ghana wasn’t passive.
In 1957, under the leadership of Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana became the first country in sub-Saharan Africa to gain independence.
It was a massive moment, not just for Ghana but for the whole continent – a symbol of hope and freedom.
Music, Cocktails, and a
Singing Dane in Accra
After exploring Accra a bit, Cynthia and I ended up at an open-air spot with live music and a menu full of hilariously named cocktails.
Naturally, we had to dive in.
Cynthia asked the waitress what her favorite drink was, and without missing a beat, she said,
“Wet Pussy is nice for me.”
That was… a moment.
Cynthia then confidently ordered a drink called “Sex in the Driveway.”
Meanwhile, the band was killing it on stage – Afrobeat, highlife, soul – absolutely electric.
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Danish man in Accra
Then they started playing the Sting classic, “Englishman in New York.”
An hour later, Cynthia had an idea: “Can you play it again, but change it to ‘Danish Man in Accra’?”
Shockingly, they agreed.
The band kicked off the song, and halfway through, the lead singer walked up to my table, stuck the mic in my face… and just like that, I was singing.
I’ll just say: Sting has nothing to worry about.
But it was one of those surreal, unforgettable moments that remind me why I love traveling so much.
Celebrating Life with Fantasy Coffins
One of the absolute highlights of my time in Accra was visiting a place called Paa Joe Coffin Works.
This workshop is famous for its fantasy coffins – custom-made masterpieces that celebrate a person’s life, job, or passion.
In Ghanaian culture, funerals are not just a time to mourn – they’re a time to celebrate the life of the person who passed away.
And what better way to do that than to be buried in a giant sneaker, a Coke bottle, or even a lion?
At Paa Joe Coffin Works, the talented artisans can craft coffins into almost anything you can imagine.
While I was there, I spoke with Jacob, the son of the legendary Paa Joe himself.
He explained how it all started:
“My father used to work with Kane Kwei, who is considered the pioneer of the fantasy coffin tradition. Later, he opened his own workshop and built his name internationally.”
Jacob showed me around the workshop, pointing out coffins shaped like Bibles, fish, airplanes – even a giant sneaker, complete with laces.
I joked about what my fantasy coffin would be:
“Imagine me being buried in a microphone-shaped coffin, and then they just mic-dropped me into the ground.”
It’s not just quirky – it’s deeply meaningful.
Each coffin tells a story about the person’s life, dreams, or accomplishments.
Watch the trailer for the film about Paa Joe and his son, Jacob:
In fact, Paa Joe’s coffins have been exhibited in museums around the world.
Their work has been celebrated globally – and standing there in the workshop, you could feel how much pride and craftsmanship goes into every piece.
If you ever visit Accra, you absolutely have to stop by Paa Joe Coffin Works.
It’s one of those places that shows you just how creative, vibrant, and culturally rich Ghana really is.
The Real Pulse of Accra
Looking back at these few days in Accra, it’s hard to believe how much happened in such a short time. The city isn’t always beautiful in the traditional sense – but it’s alive.
It’s alive in the music pouring out of roadside bars.
It’s alive in the laughter of strangers who pull you into their circle.
It’s alive in the stories of struggle and resilience shared by everyday people.
Accra isn’t a place you can experience passively. You have to jump in, get a little lost, be a little brave, and open your heart. And when you do, it rewards you with memories you’ll never forget.
What’s Next: The Adventure Continues
Even though this episode wraps up the second part of my time in Accra, we’re not done with the city yet.There’s still one more episode to come from Accra before Cynthia and I start heading north.
In the next episode, I’ll take you even deeper into Ghanaian society. We’ll dive into topics like the high number of ministries, explore the income gap a little more, and hear from listeners around the world as they share the strangest things they’ve eaten while traveling.
And after that, we’ll finally leave the capital behind – flying to Tamale and beginning our journey overland through the heart of Ghana.
From elephants to waterfalls, from dusty villages to bustling markets – it’s going to be an adventure you won’t want to miss.
My name is Palle Bo, and I gotta keep moving.
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